Cheese and Biscuits: Cowboy Star, San Diego

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Surely one of the most glorious incarnations of the restaurant, if you are a normal functional human and enjoy the consumption of red meat and powerful cocktails, it is the American Steakhouse. The first place to go for these classes has always been, and remains, New York; in a city that knows how to eat better than almost anywhere else, and with a long and happy history of all the auxiliary things that make a good steakhouse (slick, old-timey service, plush leather banquets and reasonable assumption that steaks should only be served in "half-cow" sizes up), examples are the best in the world, and are rightly world famous – Luger's, Keens, The Old Homestead; Names imbued with tradition and romance, bastions of civility and luxury in a rapidly changing world.

But while New York has set the template on how to serve the steak, they do not have the monopoly on the steak itself, and so it is reasonable that wherever people are interested in cow high and dry age, and wherever the offer of such will enable you to find restaurants that take the signal of the big apple. Some areas take more time than others to catch up – London took its sweet time, but now we have Goodman and Hawksmoor and Gillray's and so a lot of things are much better than the others, but the Southern California is not the first place that comes to mind When you think steak, the San Diego steakhouse culture has really managed to get into the first gear with the # 39, opening in 2008 of Cowboy Star. Fortunately for San Diegans, Star Cowboy is pretty much the only steakhouse you would ever need anyway.

Décor is an intelligent fusion of the New York tradition: leather cabins, open kitchen, pretty white tablecloths and Californian style (lots of wood and high ceilings "warehouse-y"). It feels as serious as it should be for a place that accumulates $ 50 the most, but with an easy atmosphere thanks to a disproportionately friendly and capable service (not nearly as much as a given as such, it was formerly in the United States) matched with this present brilliant California sun.

Everything we got was great. This may not make a particularly inspiring reading, but that is undoubtedly true, especially with regards to the gin martini that was served iced in a frozen glass and met all the criteria of the perfect martini. There is absolutely no better way to start a steak dinner with a dry martini, but there is always the danger that a small example (hot or watery or containing fragments of ice) can spoil the things. Nothing to fear on this front at Cowboy Star though.

The Steakhouse Burger is often an institution in itself; think of the undressed version of the Luger with its huge old-fashioned old-fashioned ball, or the Hawksmoor plug (United Kingdom) which was the first time that most Londoners (this one included) had the quality index of hamburger. This is not the signature burger "Ultimate", Cowboy Star (which would have been my choice), but in fact, the special lunch "Bison Burger" – leaner, gamier and served with roasted chilies. The meat had an incredible depth of flavor and was as loose and juicy as only the most specially constructed hamburgers, the white "cheddar" (use the word loosely) binding all together well and bread having a large taste as well as to hold well well. Good frites also – mellow inside and with a lightning strike, rather than in.

It was that was close to ordering a 45-day ash down 45 years for my own principal, but in the end, common sense prevailed and I arranged (!) For a T-bone of $ 50. It was a nice piece of meat and had been very well cooked, with a beautiful "crust" set without burning or bitterness and a beautiful pink interior smooth. It was also nice to see such a varied list of proposed steaks – mostly from the United States of various ranches in California, Wyoming or Washington, but also luxurious Hokkaido Wagyu for a $ 100 hit for 8 oz. What I am sure is quite the thing – they let us take it, even though we did not really have the pockets for it (it's on the left):

The grilled desserts are notoriously variable, and usually variations on the theme of cheesecake and ice cream, but Cowboy Star was well worth the effort. The bread and the butter pudding was a large slab, gilded with a sugar crust and surmounted by a rich chocolate ice cream, not very sophisticated, but incontestably pleasant …

… while this strawberry muslin cake was a much more "cheffy" affair, involving strawberries with a powerful flavor, teased in all sorts of interesting shapes and textures, surmounted by a sour cream sorbet especially pleasant.

In an understandable way – and rightly so – the T-bone was the largest part of the bill but was still very good considering the quality of the offer and did not feel like a freedom. And in fact, $ 138.36 (once you've added the virtually plus or minus 20% service charge) is a fairly reasonable figure to pay for a meal like this, all the more so as I I said given the brilliant service (full disclosure: they made me a martini, which may have been something to do with me taking pictures, but maybe because, they are like that) and steakhouse atmosphere.

So, despite not being in New York, or even any particularly noteworthy for its beef production, Cowboy Star succeeds all the measurable criteria of a steakhouse and then some just following the New York model as close to the southern sense of California. I am afraid that this post does not present itself as too gessier, as swollen as this strawberry meringue, but sometimes there is a restaurant that does almost everything, and it 's probably better, I admit just as much as inventing a defect where there is none. I loved Cowboy Star, and if you are one of those humans that work fully, I mentioned earlier, you will do it as well.

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