Cheese and Biscuits: Summers, Kilburn

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Pop Quiz! What are the following restaurants in common:

The House of Arms
The House of Arms
The House of Arms
The House of Arms
The House of Arms
… and maybe a lot more than I can not remember in mind at the moment?

The answer is, as well as being a good way to spend the lunch hour, they all have direct ties with St. John, certainly one of the restaurants the most important and the most influential to have ever existed in the capital. The elders of this sacred and whitewashed place in Farringdon have spread from afar through London and beyond, taking with them a passion for seasonal British products, the desire to fill their menus with unusual cuts of meat, ("The nose to the tail" "philosophy", and – perhaps more important than anything else – a fresh confidence in a deprived, carefree presentation that informs both the attitude of the front of the house that does not matter on the plate.

It seems extraordinary not only that this restaurant has so many direct descendants, but that many of them – in fact, everything you would like to mention – are so incredibly good. Check out the blog for reviews of one of these lists above and you will find classy and charming places that serve seasonal and modern British dishes that have helped define what it means to eat in London at during the last 10-15 years amazing and changing years.

Perhaps, then, knowing that chef Ruairidh (pronounced "Rory") Summers, who supported his surname on this charming and naked operation on an Irish pub on Kilburn High St, was previously under St John Bread and Wine in Spitalfields. enough of a qualification in itself. He is ex-saint John, so from course it's going to be good. What else do you know? Get yourself a reservation, access the Jubilee Line and enjoy an evening of bright, seasonal modern British food. This is so simple.

Well, if you insist, some highlights. We ate the entire menu, maybe I will not go into exhaustive details on each dish, but I will highlight some of the order items, starting with pickles, colored and crisp with a perfect sweet and sour balance .

Cod eggs and radishes on toasts, smooth as silk with bags of savory seafood.

If I wanted to make a critique of these asparagus, it would be that the Oglesheste cheese had not had enough heat on top; It would have been nice to have them draped in gooey melted cheese. However, the lances themselves were wonderfully cooked – always so lightly charred and with a good bite – and the layer of toasted pine nuts added a nice unhealthy note.

The heart of beef, perfectly seasoned and tender, draped over a few pieces of artichoke hearts and dressed in green herbs, is the kind of dish that would make Fergus Henderson himself proud. These have announced their arrival on the table with a grilled cow aroma, the kind of thing you will not normally encounter in a high steakhouse, and not even very often.

All the food at Summers is inspired by St John, unpretentious and accessible, but not to be confused with "simple". "It costs a lot of money to look at this cheaply!" Said Dolly Parton, and it certainly takes a lot of skill and experience to figure out what to mingle and leave alone , know how to do enough to let the ingredients sing. This piece of hake was a class of fish; a delicate and golden skin, a dense and fleshy flesh of brilliant white. It speaks of someone who knows exactly what to do for a good piece of fish, but also not and leave it there, radiating and shining on a bed of drilling.

The desserts are a side of the menu that I am assured that will receive more attention and menu space while Summers is installing in its space, but even now it is now a fantastic start . The rhubarb egg tart was typically St. John's and a traditionally traditional pot, the body temperature cream framed by a delicious biscuit crust and poached rhubarb presented in pretty square pieces.

But even better was the strawberry ice cream, a more impressive example that I have not found for several years here or abroad. The flavor was so surprisingly concentrated, the success of summer fruits, so overwhelming, that it savored something close to a sorbet, only a sorbet with this extra-luxurious layer of mild dairy products and butter. The last time I ate something so emotional, it was a raspberry sorbet at Little Barwick House in Somerset, and it 's probably not a coincidence – there too, was a singularly talented chef who made the biggest summer fruit peak. Absolutely. Absolutely.

With each exciting new opening of a former student of St John (I wrote about two now in the last two months), there is the suspicion of the temptation to be jaded about these things; that as every corner of our city gets its own little delicious gastropub, it is possible to get used to the idea. Well, good. We should get used to the idea. Every corner of London, from Lewisham to Kilburn, from Islington to Stockwell, deserves a Summers – there should be one in each postcode, a pitstop on every home work route, somewhere to drink nice wine and enjoy well and proves that London is the largest gastronomic city of the land, as we have always understood. And for all that, we thank St. John.

9/10

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